There are basic rules to wine and food pairing. Like most other rules, the fun is in the breaking once you know what the rules are and why they were made. Tried and true classics have come down to us through centuries of European trial and error. The French, Germans, Spanish and Italians have toyed with flavours to the point of being almost rigidly specific about what goes with what: liver paté and sweet Sauternes, Gewurztraminer and pork, semi-sweet Champagne and chocolate, bone dry Sherry and green olives, Cabernet Franc and goats cheese, Port and Roquefort, etc...
The growth of table culture in California in the 1960s provided the first platform for a 'New World' culture to self-assuredly thumb its nose at the classic rules of European cuisine and wine. The basic ideal of Pacific Rim cuisine ran something like 'lets toss out the rules and retry everything'. Strongly influenced by Asia, Latin American and Italy, some of the resulting new taste combinations coming from California have worked wonderfully, while others have failed miserably. Perhaps most importantly, the process of 'new thinking' took root and the rules haven't been the same since. In turn this culinary revolution worked its way back to the old world and has helped loosen things up there quite a bit. Pacific Rim Cuisine has been heavily shaped by Californian Cuisine for two decades now, spreading not only around the Pacific Rim but back up to Europe as well. It's particulary trendy in Australasia at the moment.
Spiritually, Australasia seems to be at the western-most edge of the New World and eastern-most edge of the Old World. Not a bad place to be if you want to borrow the best from everywhere. Plopped in the middle of the South Pacific it has a brilliant opportunity to develop a style of food and wine pairing like nowhere else. The world eagerly waits for new 'classics' to emerge from the process already begun here. But to get this right we need a better understanding and appreciation for the deeper food and wine traditions elsewhere in the world. Only then can we be certain what rules break best -- and when innovation is working well.
Rules and No Rules, OK.
Generally speaking the paramount rule is to find wines and foods that complement, rather than fight with each other. For example, a very special, delicately flavoured dish should not be overwhelmed by the wine served with it. It is better to find a neutral flavoured wine, with delicacy and nuance that will support and, hopefully, lift the flavours in the food. Italian wines are excellent at this, difficult to drink on their own, but outstanding at showing the best food has to offer.
But there are times when the wine needs to star. Sometimes it is more important to show off everything in a rare, complex bottle of well-aged wine. Food, in this extreme case, is best kept simple, unspiced and neutral, so it does not interfere or overpower. Often, with a fine, well aged bottle of wine, I'm happiest with a chunk of quality French bread and a piece of bland cheese. Old wine is like having a world-wise octogenarian to dinner, you want to listen and carefully respond to everything said about a long and interesting life.
And then there are still other times when its best to throw caution to the wind and all rules out the window. Once in a while the mouth needs to be overwhelmed with sensation and dumbstruck by culinary dizziness. It becomes a matter of big flavours against even bigger flavours. Spicy food demands wine that is either massively fruity, like bold young Shiraz, or spicy like Gewurztraminer, or aromatic like Riesling, or herbaceously extroverted like Sauvignon Blanc (hot spicy hates acids, so is usually better with beer). Similarly, wines that have both intense sweetness and tartness going at the same time (like German-style Rieslings, Vouvray-style Chenin Blancs or late harvest dessert wines) can stand up equally well to both oriental dishes and a variety of cheeses.
One of the best known rules is to pair red wine with meat; white with fish. Usually, the darker and fuller flavoured the meat the darker and fuller flavoured the wine needs to be. So Bordeaux grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot are obvious choices for red meats and game; Syrah/Shiraz with lamb, and Pinot Noir with pork and game birds. Similar with whites. Light fine wines like dry Rieslings or Methode Champenoise sparklers with shell fish and sole; heavier Chardonnays and Semillons with snapper, ocean going and river fish.
But for every food rule I can think of at least one exception. Typically, you should only drink white wine with fish, but red Pinot Noir works beautifully with salmon or swordfish or tuna. Typically, red wine goes best with meat, but Chardonnay goes well with chicken or veal and dry Riesling with pork and Gewurztraminer with spicy sausage. This list could go on and on....
If you've noticed that I seem to be talking in circles, you're right. The best advice I can give is to follow the rules precisely and then rebel bravely. You can't be too wrong, it all comes out in the end afterall, and no one is going to take away your birthday if you aren't right.
